



"It was a terrible time," says my dear Darjeeling buddy, Ujwal, the memory of the Gorkhaland riots of the late 1980s etched in his mind as clearly as the air in the hills. And it was. The official death toll was put at 1200 and many times that number was injured. It's hard to imagine such a time, as I gaze out at a zen-like tea garden, in a Darjeeling, I've swiftly and surely begun to love.


Twenty years ago, under the leadership of Subash Ghishing, the Gorkha National Liberation Front (GNLF) terrorised the hills in a demand for a separate state for the Gorkhas, until the wonderful art of negotiation the GNLF, innocuously renamed the Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council to have a free run, in exchange for dropping the Gorkhaland ideal.
But corruption and atrocities will only be ignored for so long. In 2007, Ghishing was run out of the hills and a new party, the Gorkha Janmukti Morcha (GJM) was formed under the leadership of the Bimal Gurung. They resurrected the ghost of Gorkhaland and are now demanding a state comprising Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Kurseong, a few other regions in the hills and Siliguri. Of these the last has proved to be a thorn in the side for the West Bengal government. As a gateway (albeit a city of squalor) to the whole of the North East of India, Siliguri has the enviable job of collecting a tax and toll from every truck, train or aircraft bearing cargo to and from the region. There's the catch. Even if the West Bengal government was prepared to relinquish control of the hills, mainly prided for tea and tourism, giving up Siliguri would be too big a bitter pill to swallow.
That hasn't stopped the GJM and as I lay languishing in the sweet pre-monsoon of Darjeeling, the chants rent the air, already thick with fog. The looping almost musical Nepali and English cries of thousands of Gorkhas demanding their identity. I'm looked on with curiosity as every other tourist has flown from the intermittent strikes and constant peaceful protests. Whether they are adequately equipped to handle their own affairs is left to a time when they will be given the key. Until then, like my many friends in Darjeeling keep saying, we can only wait and watch.
"In another moment down went Alice after it, never once considering how in the world she was to get out again. The rabbit-hole went straight on like a tunnel for some way, and then dipped suddenly down, so suddenly that Alice had not a moment to think about stopping herself before she found herself falling down a very deep well."





Mount Everest (bang center)
Machupuchchare (Annapurna Himalayas, Nepal)
Annapurna 2 and Annapurna 4 (Annapurna Himalayas, Nepal)
Mt. Kanchenjunga
The phrase Valley Of Flowers conjures up some endless grassy knoll, with a million rainbow blooms swaying in a gentle breeze, bringing with it their heady perfume. Unfortunately, we were a month too late. Other than a few mocking traces, the flora was all gone and all that was left was a bitterly cold desolation with spitting rain and an icy Teesta River.


Dear all,
with your kind, generous and great hearted support we have been able to achieve certain amount of victory. We have been able to save the fragile ecology in the Kanchenjunga National Park and Biosphere Reserve in Dzongu. In other words we have been able to stop the implementation of four mega hydel projects which would have been terribly disastrous for the environment in the area. Thanks to you all, a small piece of the Earth has been preserved for posterity.
Now we have to go on with the other mega projects which are going to destroy the Lepcha tribes, their culture, customs, religion, language etc and of course which will also be affecting the national park as they are within kilometer of the park.Two more to go.
Kindly follow our blog www.weepingsikkim.blogspot.com for updates of our activities.
with sincere thoughts and warm regards,
Dawa Lepcha,
General Secretary,
Affected Citizens of Teesta.
It just goes to show that if you truly believe in what's right and have the courage to stand up for it, the truth shall prevail.
I'm really really happy for them. :)